Saturday, August 21, 2021

2018 David Akiyoshi - Ink Ink Ink

 

2018 David Akiyoshi - Ink Ink Ink

  What I am about to say is kind of meant in a semi light hearted way folks so please don't take it too seriously as it is really not meant to be. Are you guys big on commitment? I'm talking here in reference to a winemaker in general and their choosing to not commit to a particular grape varietal when creating a wine. Yeah, I know I might be very well off base here but I really do like people who commit. Have I had some very nice red or white wine blends in my time? Yes, I certainly have but it is always is in the back of my mind that somewhere along the lines, people were either bored and wanted to experiment (which is cool) or they just didn't, or couldn't commit to a single varietal. I would think that as a winemaker, you either create a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Merlot, a Pinot Noir or a Tempranillo etc; Yes, I know that red blends have been around for some time and they are popular but I like commitment nevertheless. Give me a varietal that I can have a decent standard of reference for and I can then have some framework for a review. I think that without varietal standards as a framework we are left with one aspect of reviewing which is very simply, did I like the wine? While I certainly do believe that question is important to answer, it is not (or should be) the end all, be all of a wine review. I completely understand if you believe that my thinking is wrong but it is something that I wanted to share with you guys. Okay, I feel better now and so it is time to move onto the wine itself:)

David Akiyoshi - Winemaker
   Today I am reviewing the 2018 David Akiyoshi - Ink Ink Ink. I paid $12.99 for this wine at Naked Wines (https://us.nakedwines.com//) as a member and it is cork sealed. The alcohol percentage for this wine comes in at a fairly high, 14.8% and the wine is a blend of  three different grape varietals which are Tannat, Teroldego & Petite Sirah.
   After completely reviewing this wine and giving it my Desert wine Guy rating, I simply had to come back here and add this section because I believe Mr. Akiyoshi deserves to be talked about. Who is David Akiyoshi and how is he qualified to make wine? These are two very good questions and I have the answers. David has worked as Director of Wine making for 25 years at Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi. Not only is David creating wines for Naked Wines but he currently is also working at LangeTwins Family Winery & Vineyards (https://langetwins.com/) which is located in Lodi, California. If this doesn't qualify Mr. Akiyoshi to create wine, nothing does. Alright, now to the wine.
   As I get closer to taking a look at this wine I want to do a little education for myself as well as you readers concerning the two uncommon grape varietals of Teroldego (teh-ROHL-deh-goh) and Tannat. Let's start off with the Teroldego grape varietal. This grape is in the species of Vitis Vinifera and is native to northern Italy in particular the regions of Südtirol and the Trentino-Alto Adige DOC. About 98% of this grapes production comes from Italy and the grape is believed to be the sibling of the Syrah variety crossed with either Pinot Noir or the Lagrien grape (northern Italy as well) varieties.
Tannat Grape
As for the Tannat varietal, this grape is also of the Vitis Vinifera species and is native to the country of France, the Basque region. Today the varietal is actually the most planted variety in Uruguay. The varietal also has some serious health benefits as well as the fact that it contains the highest polyphenols (antioxidants) of all red wine grapes. The varietal does very well with oak aging as well although there is also some wine from this grape being made without any oak. Okay guys, let's get into the wine now.
   Let's begin where I always begin and that is talking about the label on the wine bottle. This label was actually created by a Tattoo artist whose name is Zhou Dan Ting, Ting is also known as China's "First Lady of Tattoo". According to David Akiyoshi, it was actually the members of Naked Wines who chose this design for the label which I think is really cool. Okay so my feelings. I most definitely get the "Ink, Ink, Ink name based upon the artists background and I do think it is really pretty and well designed. Normally, without the knowledge of the artist, I wouldn't have seen any connection between the label and the wine inside the bottle but in this case I do believe that the fact that a tattoo artist created it certainly does allow the freedom for the label to be more abstract.
   Now I actually get into the wine. On the bouquet now the nose starts off with a smell of a sheet of Bounce, you know the sheet of fabric softener that you throw in the dryer to make your clothing smell nice.....even though....they are already...clean. The nose also possesses a nice brightness to it of lively and certainly fresh, red fruit. There is the slightest bit of black pepper and it is on the end of the bouquet and is on the ultra light side.
Zhou Dan Ting
 Such an incredibly well presented note of oak is available here on the nose as well and it is very integrated with everything else the nose offers up. The slightest bit of vanilla is also another note the wine exposes here and as with the other bouquet notes, it is nice. This vanilla gives up just a hint of softness but the notes in the end, don't seem to be having any of it and the bouquet in the end actually maintains a nice entertaining boldness overall.
   Now, we are going to discuss the palate characterization (presentation) of this wine. Pepper. Right off the bat I want...no, need to let you know that if you do not enjoy pepper in your red wines, do not buy this wine. The peppery aspect of this wine is very simply totally awesome. I have had many red wines in the past that presented a peppery note but nothing as delicious as this. This peppery note spreads itself throughout the wines entire palate presentation and is not overpowering and certainly not willing to take a back seat to any other notes the wine brings out. While I am on the topic of spice, I kind of find it funny how while the percentage of the Teroldego varietal isn't listed and I have never tasted the varietal prior to this, there is a part of the wine that in a soft way I feel can be identified as coming from that grape. My research on the grape also shows that it is known for this spice note. This particular spice note that I feel comes from the Teroldego varietal comes in at the mid-palate and makes the wise decision not to try and overpower the original spice note. What I have to say next might scare some folks as I know it would scare me as well had I not actually tasted the wine but don't be alarmed. There is some decent fruit forwardness to the wine and it is to the point where I have to even use the dreaded word.....jammy. While the wine does exhibit some jamminess to it, I have to tell you that it really works very well here as alll of that spice I mentioned would never (could never) work as well as it does without it. Control folks, control. That control I speak of was rather obvious to me as I have normally found that usually when a wine shows a decent bit of jamminess it usually progress as the wine develops and that was not the case here. For those of you who do not follow this blog, you should know that I absolutely hate jamminess in a wine, like.......hate it so if I am saying the jamminess works, it truly does work and I actually wouldn't want to imagine the wine without it. Moving on now, there is an incredible refined, tightly bound intentness to the wine, it is a refindness & power which the wine (and my palate) truly embarrasses.
Teroldego Grape
This tightly bound intentness is rather amazing and is another really instrumental note in this wine which exceeded my expectations and helped in allowing that previously mentioned jamminess to excel in making the wine rather incredibly. How are tannings sounding right about now? If you said "great", you are going to be happy. The tannins here in the wine guys are plentiful but not abrasive by any means. These tannins are another note that I would certainly recommend that you enjoy in a red wine prior to buying this particular one because they are indeed instrumental in the wines overall presentation. I completely enjoyed these tannins as I do all tannins in reality but these again, really exceed my expectations as to keep it real, I didn't expect any at all. Moving on now I want to let you know about a brightness to the wine as well as the fact that here again is another note which I think makes this wine so great and while I know I am repeating myself, I don't believe the wine would be what it is without it. This brightness seems to come partly from the jammines the wine puts out as well as the fruit forwardness. Have no worries guys because I promise you, this brightness note remains very well under control at all times. Let's talk now about Black Currant. Yes guys, black currant, a roaring, lightly palate coating, Black Currant is displayed throughout the entire wine and it really coats the palate especially when a black cherry note is presented which is just after the opening. Oh, I didn't mention black cherry? Well, I certainly do apologize, allow me correct that error. The wine puts out a very nice black cherry note and that note becomes instant best friends with the black currant and the two work amazingly well together, like, really amazingly well guys. If you get a chance to taste this wine (you should) you will see just how well. Firmness, structured & expertly done, those are the perfect words for this wine especially after it is given a period to develop.  Last but certainly not least is the perfect presentation of an oak, an oak that is not heavy and is happy right where it is as far as palate presentation is concerned. Too much more of a palate presentation and it is overdone, any less and the wine would be lacking a certain something. Well folks, that's it. Let's get to the conclusion of this review now. I will see you in the next paragraph.
Charcuterie Board

   Guys, now that we are onto the conclusion paragraph I really have to put this out there. This wine is able (and does) take two notes that I normally really shy away from in my reds and manages to have me love them. The two notes I am talking about is fruit forwardness and jamminess. Yes, the wine is a bit jammy as well as a semi fruit forward driven one. Each of these notes is tamed to an extent (especially after the wine is opened a bit) and therefore presented in such an amazing way that they really work, extremely well together without being offensive. The wine has some very serious structure to it and not one bit of flabbiness, I promise you that. There is no subtlenness to the wine as it is in attack mode from the minute the first drop hits your tongue it goes on the attack. Folks, I recommend that if you do not enjoy jamminess or pepper in your wine that you stay away from this wine, it is not made for you. I would give this wine at least 2 hours to decant because while the wine was really nice prior to the 2 hours, it really opened up afterwards and was amazing. On The Desert Wine Guy rating scale I am giving this wine 96 points. If you want an old world, red wine presentation this is it. 

                                                                                                                                     The Desert Wine Guy

P.S - After this review was completed, I went back to the Naked Wines website and purchased three more bottles of this wine for......me and only.....me :) Yes, the wine is that good. By the way, I am a member of Naked Wines and pay them $40 each month to be a member so this is not a push to join.

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